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Autumn 2001

Briefly Noted_________________

 

In the 1950's I used to go to Pandelidis' bookshop on Amerikis Street for the latest English publications as few books were published in Greece at the time.  Hardcovers were always expensive but pocket Penguins were only 10 drachmas. Although the offerings were limited, books with a focus on Greece and things Greek were usually prominent. It was through those writers that I became aware of a Greece beyond my immediate experience and schooling.

 

I remember leafing through Osbert Lancaster's Classical Landscape, with its exquisite sketches of people and places. His writing was erudite but unassuming and informative. The charming descriptions of his travels through Greece in the late 1940's blended the landscape with the people, the architecture with the environment, the traditional Greek customs with modern Greece. He managed to convey the contradictions of the classical and Byzantine heritage in the Greek mind in such a way that one understood and empathized with the difficulties and the chaos prevalent at the time.

Recently I re-read The Colossus of Maroussi. I had almost forgotten the poignant meanderings of Henry Miller with the painter Ghikas, the philosopher Katsimbalis, and the novelist Lawrence Durrell in the late 1930's. For Miller it was a mental as well as a physical journey resulting in the discovery of himself, and a return to his philosophical and cultural roots. It was a revealing account of conditions in Greece, of the people he encountered, of Athens, and of his visits to the Peloponnese and Delphi.

  
Henry Miller 1938

 

Through his daily dialogues and adventures he brought out the essence of dignity amid poverty, and the fragility of human beings in a yet undiscovered and forgotten country.  His book made others want to come to Greece to share these experiences.

Probably one of the most famous books about Greece was Gerald Durrell's My Family and Other Animals. It recounted the lives of an English family living on the island of Corfu in the 1930's. The book was magical in its tenderness towards nature and its descriptions of island life. It created a generation of visitors to Corfu in search of the Pink Villa where the Durrell family lived, much as Byron's poems on Greece created a wave of philhellenism in England in the 1820's.

 

Many writers have focused on particular areas of Greece, as did Patrick Leigh Fermor in his classic on the Mani; some have written novels with Greek locations like John Fowles’ The Magus, which was inspired by the year he spent teaching English at a boarding school on the island of Spetses in 1952. His descriptions of walking through the pine forests, the solemn church bells in the winter, the wind-swept Aegean sea, bring the fragrance of pine to your nose and a salt taste to your mouth.

 

I went to Corfu in search of Durrell's idyll; I scoured Maroussi for Katsimbalis, the “Colossus”. I visited the Ghikas mansion on Hydra, now a burnt-out ruin; I studied in Spetses at John Fowles' school; I discovered the Monastery of St. John the Baptist in the foothills of Hymettus, so beautifully depicted by Osbert Lancaster, and read the poems of Byron, Yeats, Eliot, Corso and others whose vision of Greece led me to my own “ Journey to Ithaka”.

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