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Spring 2005 Briefly Noted_________________ A glowing aura permeates the garden; the sinking sun filtering through the clouds. The white- topped wall running through one side of the orchard is sharply outlined between the undulating Rosemary bushes in front and the tall green Leyland trees in the back; Colors and hues change the garden giving it a chameleon character, a stage setting illuminated by nature. As I was doing my chores cutting the weeds with my trusty tractor swarms of birds swooped down over the cut areas; it was as if I had just laid the dinner table for them; after a few minuets they would rise up in the air angling elegantly and come to rest on the pistachio tress twittering happily to each other. The swarms do not limit themselves to birds, but to ants, caterpillars, worms of every variety aerating the earth, field mice, clusters of hedgehogs and in springtime mounds of tortoises, shuffling speedily through the undergrowth leaving behind their newborn soft- shelled minute offspring. Every week a new variety of bird appears, adding their voice to the melodious orchestra. I marvel at the invisible conductor of this orchestral composition. Two nights ago it was Wagner with the wind blowing hard, every tree moving musically, today it was Erik Satie, soft, serene. Change is the lingua franca in this Attica enclave fighting its battle against the noise and nefos, Western civilizations' gift to its cradle. The visuals are so important; just as food affects our health what we see affects our mind. I never tire of looking at nature's repast . The expression of 'feasting one eyes' gets full use at this optical culinary table. I believe in at least three optical feasts a day with some snacks thrown in to offset the visual cacophony of the city. It's not only the visual harmony but the order. An ordered garden should be an example to those entrusted with safeguarding our country. In Shakespeare's play Richard II, the disorganized garden is compared to the disorganized state. The terrorist weeds sprouting surreptitiously have to be identified and removed. This has to be done delicately, though, lest we upset the protean balance. The Duke of York's gardener remarks to the servant: '
go thou,and like an executioner, Cut off the heads of too fast growing sprays that look too lofty in our commonwealth; Unfortunately our world's garden is : ' full of weeds, the fairest flowers chok'd up, her fruit trees all unprun'd, her hedges ruin'd, her knots disorder'd and her wholesome herbs swarming in caterpillars'. It took one hundred years
to resolve the issues between the House of Bolingbroke and the House of
York. A hundred years of conflict and destruction. The Red rose
spattering it's blood on the White rose The state of our world is precariously imbalanced. We must look closer at our garden lest hundred years hence we too trade 'our kingdom for a horse' and 'drop tears as fast as the Arabian trees their medicinal gum". Programs on Spetses_________
Poetry Workshop: June 19-July 9 This summer poetry workshop will be open to poets, writers and individuals interested in creative writing and poetic expression. Conducted by award-winning poet Alicia Stallings the workshop will include nightly readings with Katerina Anghelaki Rook, Tassos Denegris, Nikos Papandreou and other Greek and foreign poets. Art Workshop: June 19-July 9 The workshop will emphasize water colour painting and drawing and is open to individuals with or without previous artistic experience. The Greek island architecture, the natural beauty of the island of Spetses, all contribute to an environment conducive to artistic expression and Judith Allen will be the artists- in- residence . Greek Language: The Centre will offer its three-week summer Modern Greek language program on Spetses, from June 19-July-9. The sessions include instruction from Greek I through Greek VI, as well as a Modern Greek Literature course for advanced students. Courses are open to adults of all nationalities. Theatre Workshop and Festival: The University of Detroit Mercy will conduct its annual summer theatre workshop and Festival, with a production of Aristophanes' The Birds, and Euripides 'Electra at the Anargyrios Amphiteatre on Spetses and in the open- air theatre at the American College of Greece in Athens. Dr. Arthur Beer and Mary Bremer will conduct the workshops and direct the productions. Programs
in Athens___________ The Pennsylvania State University Spring Semester in Greece. Dr.Mark Munn and Dr. Mary Lou Zimmerman Munn are the Faculty of Record for the program. In Spring the Centre will host the University of Chicago’s Classics Quarter. Elizabeth Asmis and Maria Fusaro will conduct the classes and lecture on-site. Also in spring, students from the AHA/NCSA Consortium of colleges and universities in Oregon, Washington State and Alaska, will participate in a Greek classic studies semester. Dr. Curtis Yehnert will be the Faculty of Record. In early summer Boston College will hold their annual Classics program in addition to Westminster College and the Graham School of the University of Chicago. Other programs this year included Colby College and the University of Delaware. The Modern Greek Language Program will offer classes on all levels throughout the year in Athens. Program details at: www.athenscentre.gr Guest
Lecture______________ The Richard Trapp Memorial
lecture will be given this year by Professor
Stephen Tracy, director of the American School of Classical Studies in
Athens. Dr. Tracy will speak on
Athenian Culture and the Persian Wars.
Wednesday May 18, at 7.00 p.m. at the Athens Centre, 48 Archimidous
Street. On going through my old files recently I came across one of my old cancelled Greek passports issued in 1955. As I leafed through it I noticed that I had obtained a 'visa' to 'Europe Occidental'. Of course, the European Union did not exist at that time, but if Greece was not considered part of the West, where was it and what was it part of? In my understanding, the Orient, or Near East, began on the other side of the Bosphorus in the divided city of Istanbul, or Constantinople as it is called by the Greeks. The countries surrounding the eastern Mediterranean basin were referred to as 'The Levant', whereas the countries east of the Adriatic and bounded by the Bosphorus were the Balkans. Greece shared elements of both these areas, neither of which entitled it to be part of 'Occidental' Europe. During the liberation of Greece from the Ottoman Empire, circa 1821-1830, Western Europe had a major preoccupation, in arts and letters, with the Orient and Orientalism. It was a time of territorial expansion by a Western Europe seeking new markets and raw materials. The French and the British vied for Egypt, the Russians and the British were trading places in Afghanistan, the Raj was going into full swing in India, Asian and oriental societies abounded, and aside from the impassioned writing of the British poet Byron, not much was heard about Greece or things Greek. Perhaps we had slipped through the geopolitical Balkan crack. Greece had just emerged as an independent country with a glorious history, but to Europeans, the modern nation seemed populated by 'barbarians' who seemed unrelated to their Classical ancestors, and by a few itinerant philhellenes, engravers, travelers and young men on the grand tour of the Levant. Western Europe judged foreign territories by its own standards of 'civilization' and Greece was somewhere out there with a plangent poetic past, an obscure present and a very uncertain future, led by a 18 year old Bavarian prince and a few expatriate Greeks who had boarded the freedom train called the "Greek Cause." The post - Byronic period in Greece marked a further decline in European interest in Greek affairs. Edward Lear's 19th century book Journal of a Landscape Painter in Albania and Ilyria, became a popular and enduring travelogue but it restricted itself to those parts of Greece that had yet to be liberated. In May 1866, Crete made a brave attempt at liberation but Ottoman rule was restored on the island with the consent of the Western powers. Charles Dickens had warned the Greeks on Crete that" they must keep quiet now, since no help would come from Europe. David Roessel, writing in his book In Byron's Shadow, says that " the perception of Greece as geographically indeterminate remained prevalent in the middle of the nineteenth century, although the clear dichotomy of ancient/West and modern /East had began to break down?..modern Greece was viewed as something of a gray area between East and West without being a full or credible member of either region." On the other hand, Charles Dilke, a prominent liberal politician, asserted in 1878 in Parliament that "I believe in Greece - believe in the ultimate replacement of the Turkish State by Greece" which would be " an outpost of Western Europe in the East." The general opinion about Modern Greeks, however, was negative, although the sentiment of most travelers who had actually been there was romantically philhellenic. Things changed slowly. When Greece won the first allied victory of World War II by defeating the Italians in Koritsa, in November 1940, the world suddenly looked at this 'quaint' country with new interest. Writers such as Miller and Durrell had previously depicted Greece as a place to find oneself. After the war, tourists discovered the Greek islands, the charm and Filoxenia, hospitality, of the Greek people. Politically, Greece had become a buffer zone between East and West. It was the only Western allied country in the Balkans after the Yalta Pact, and it was Christian, friendly and part of the Western NATO alliance. The rise of Greece as a modern European country was helped and hindered by its dual identity emanating from both its known classical past and its mostly unknown Byzantine heritage. This year Greece undertook the Presidency of the European Union. In 150 years it has made up for the absence of the Renaissance, lost geographical boundaries and lost identity by creating and educating a nation which included Nobel prize winners, educators, musicians, artists, a commercial navy second to none and a future as a major player in the emerging Balkan states. Its role in international affairs is usually one of conflict resolution rather than conflict creation. We have a long way to get to Ithaca, but no more visas to go to Europe, not even a passport.
Briefly Noted_________ I have to go to Kea. This little Greek island off Cape
Sounion, which is also known as Tzia, has remained hidden from popular
view despite its proximity to Athens. The last time I went with my
friend Bruce Margolin, a lawyer from Los Angeles, we stayed in a small
farmhouse made of whitewashed stone.
It had no electricity or running water,
but there was a
rustic charm with its hanging grapes, stone seating areas and a peace
punctuated by the cries of young goats. We drove down a mountain road to
an area called Vroskipos. The sea was wild and the coastline rugged. The
Kea channel is noted for swirling currents and many a ship has been lost
in these waters, including the sister ship of the Titanic, the HMHS
Britannic, which went down in 1916. The main village, Ioulis, perched high on the mountainside,
has a grand stone lion and a medieval castle. Car - free
narrow streets are reminiscent of Cycladic villages, but without
the jewelry shops and throngs of visitors. My friend Ian Vorres had a
house in the village that he was selling. I did not buy his house but
found a piece of land on
the way to the seaside retreat of Pisses. The road winds around the
mountain with stone -terraces dividing the plots. Wild thyme covers
the ground; the few houses are all made of grey slate, as are the low
dwellings for sheep and goats. The road descends into Pisses, an
agricultural valley full of almond trees and vines,.and ends on a sandy
beach with a taverna that cooks local food like your Greek mother's
kitchen. We sit on the terrace sipping retsina, watching the sunset in
the horizon. The mountains look purple and the sea is dancing. The
island was shunned by visitors for a long time as it was here that
people were exiled as part of their prison terms, including George
Papadopoulos, leader of the military junta which took over Greece in
1967. A dirt road
leaves Pisses for an area called Koundouros, known for its windmills.
Recently it has become popular with
Athenians, who upgraded the windmills and the prices. Another
favorite is the little port of Vourkari with some charming fish tavernas
and a safe haven for yachts anxious to escape the howling gales off the
Cavo D'oro. Historically
the island was quite densely populated, and was known for its special
custom of 'To Keion' in which residents were required to commit suicide
at aged seventy by drinking the Conium.
It was also the birthplace of the celebrated poet of antiquity,
Simeonides. Today, little
communities are scattered over the island, some accessible only on foot.
They often have double names, like the settlement of Pera Hora / Kato
Meria, indicating their location as well as their identity. Walking on
the paths through the valleys is a sensory and visual delight; in part
verdant and green, often hilly and always harmonious. Birds, tortoises
and goats roam through the
untouched copses and clusters of ferns, Cypress trees, and
oak. It is a difficult terrain with no signposts, rest stops, or
other amenities. One encounters few or no people. The island population
of 1800 people is spread out over 120 square kilometers.
Most visitors bring their cars on the ferryboat from Lavrion, an
old mining town close to Sounion. The super- slow ferry takes an hour
and a half to get to the port of Koressia. Gliding into a large natural harbor one sees a stark
mountainours landscape. The port has a certain charm; the buildings are a mixture
of Cycladic and neo-classical architecture. Small tavernas, cafes and
shops dot the main road by the quay and the high point of the day is the
arrival and departure of the ferryboat. Last year I decided to construct
some stone houses on my land on the Pisses road. They are almost ready,
blending gracefully into the hillside. Their presence does not clash
with the landscape or the sense of nature’s balance. I hear that Kea has become more popular and is being discovered by
braver tourists anxious to find a pristine, unblemished island. Its time
for me to revisit Kea, now a home away from home.
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